No, as much as the idea of flagellating and lacerating myself in the name of the grandson of the prophet appeals to me, I actually spent New Years here in Tokyo. For those who don't know, and I'm not blaming them, New Years Eve is a fairly sombre and family-focused event in Japan, much like Christmas in the West but even more so. Adhering to the oft-said advice that when one is in Rome one should do as the Romans, my friends and I thought we would blend this ethos with the manner of celebration to which we were more accustomed, and proceeded to drink in a sombre and diligent manner. This is the story.
In spite of my ambivalent attitude to New Year's resolutions, let it be known that henceforth I resolve to no longer drink alcohol which comes from a bottle shaped like a feline demon. As if the bottle itself that night was not warning enough, as I smelled it I became convinced that if I were to ever be in a situation where I would have to de-grease a diesel engine, I would know exactly what to use. In fact two days later, a moment occurred where I couldn't remember what 8x8 equaled and concluded this satanic fire-water had something to do with it. In spite of this,
After thanking our taxi driver in a slurred Japanese that to him sounded like no known language, we made our way to the major intersection where we would say sayonara to 2008. I wasn't exactly cogent enough at the time to know exactly where to go, but I was able to recall two facts: one, there would be a lot of gaijin (foreigners) there and two, gaijin make a lot of noise, particularly when they're drunk; it was simply a matter of triangulating the sound of the "woo"s with the "hoo"s. As we got closer to the crossing, the noise was became louder and louder when I heard another noise coming from behind me. I knew the sound; it was the same sound a sea lion makes when it's in heat followed by the same sound pasta sauce makes when it hits the floor. I turned to see a friend of mine hunched over holding his stomach, donning the facial expression of a man who has just been betrayed. Indeed he had been. The sweet, lovable cat which courted us earlier in the evening contained booze which decided to pounce out and curiously explore the streets of Shibuya much to my friend's expense.
At this point the minutes remaining in 2008 could be counted on one hand, so I urged my war-wounded friend, in a way any inebriated comrade would, to push on:
"I'm not going to make it," he said, "go on without me."
"Don't talk like that, you're going to be fine," I replied, but deep down I knew it was a lie.
"Tell my girl that I love her, and that I'm sorry."
"I'll come back for you. Stay here."
And so with that I ran to the neon crossing by myself, unable to find neither my friends nor my cell phone, and together with tens of thousands of similarly drunk people, roughly concluded that it was now 2009 (there was no countdown clock). I returned to where I had left my friend, and saw that the only thing left of him was the half-digested spaghetti we had eaten before. I didn't see my friend again that night, and it wasn't until January 3rd that I found out he had survived and was alright. For those who don't believe me, what follows is the posting I wrote on his Facebook wall a few days after (for the sake of humanity I've omitted his name):
"*****! holy crap man new years was ridiculous! i lost you right when we got to shibuya; are you still alive??? let me know because i have your ipod and watch"
What happened after all this will have to wait for another entry and is also under ongoing investigation by the Tokyo Metropolitan Police (thats a joke, mom). I suppose in a way it was rather fitting that I should spend the last few moments of 2008 dwarfed by a leviathan crowd in massive metropolis because in a way, that is what living in Tokyo really is like.
And so I enter 2009 stage left, disease and debt free, and on fairly good terms with life. I hope you do too.


